Saturday, December 4, 2010

Jeddah – Saudi Arabia’s Second Biggest City


I had my first visit to Jeddah last week, a city of almost 4 million and a 3 hour drive south of Yanbu. The highway there is interstate highway standards but without billboards or any commercial stops – just a few small towns a mile or two off the highway. The terrain is all empty desert -- sort of like driving into Palm Springs from the Interstate -- but it stretches for all 175+ miles.

It was fun to be in a big city again. In many ways, it resembled an Arabic Los Angeles. The city is very spread out with sprawling residential and many strip commercial centers rather plainly designed. Lots of traffic but no freeways except getting into and out of the city. The downtown has many high rise buildings, but no identifiable city center.

Two of the most interesting aspects were a few of the older buildings of Old Jeddah and the fish market. Old Jeddah historic district by the harbor has 8 or 10 apartment buildings like one in this photo. They do not seem to be inhabited, but they have been “saved” and I guess one day will be renovated.

The fish market was truly interesting, but sadly there were many signs that said “no photos” perhaps because all of the women shopping there. It had rows and rows of vendors with a wide range of fresh fish displayed in boxes and on makeshift shelves.

The waterfront area had long promenades with several major international hotels – Westin, Sheraton, Marriott, Hilton and others -- but hardly any beach. It felt somewhat like Miami Beach but with a very narrow strip of sand or seawall. One of the most attractive buildings was a mosque that was extended over the water on a pier. The beaches in Yanbu are far more appealing: cleaner, sandier and prettier water. (I know I am biased, but many Saudi’s tell me the same thing.)

One unique feature, which we have in Yanbu on a smaller scale, is gargantuan concrete street sculptures. They are found in every traffic circle and highlighted on maps for points of reference. While some are interesting, I thought the artistic beauty was lacking – unless you like concrete boats, concrete waves, 50 foot high bicycles, concrete lamps and the like. The concrete boats in the photo were, of course, along the water front.

We visited two malls, the largest in the city is the Mall of Arabia - a women’s clothing store heaven. The mall also had a Tony Roma’s and TGI Friday restaurant and several US fast food chains beyond the McDonald’s and Pizza Hut that we have in Yanbu.

Upon returning to Yanbu that evening my friend Kevin and I both said it was nice to be “home” and see nicely landscaped and cleaner streets, little traffic and nicer neighborhoods. Not much in Jeddah to see again beyond more shopping or different and more dining choices. I understand that the capital city of Riyadh has several museums which I expect to visit sometime in the future.

Back in Yanbu today - Friday, December 3 - a day off so I road my bike with my El Paso friend Dale to the beach for a late morning swim. Sorry to all of you about to go into winter. Not a lot to do in Yanbu, but the beach on the Red Sea is a wonderful amenity.

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